NYC’s Koreatown is burgeoning, y’all. It’s always been a booming neighborhood, a place where weary New Yorkers seek refuge in the steamy tofu stews served from practically every restaurant, or nibble upon the sweet and savory pastries from the cafes occupied by Korean hipsters. But nowadays, the neighborhood is even more alive, with Korean make-up brands like Tony Moly and Nature Republic and svelte little fashion boutiques setting up shop. There’s even action taking place on the outskirts of the typical block we normally associate with Koreatown (32nd Street between Broadway and 5th Avenue). Take31 on you guessed it, 31st Street, and Atoboy on 29th Street are newish restaurants sure to dazzle you with its unique edible wares.

By day, Take31 is actually a cafe dubbed Cup & Cup and by night, it sheds its docile afternoon skin to reveal a thriving nocturnal hotspot. The atmosphere harbors a charmingly country cottage style, surprising when you think about the sleek and modern furnishings that often dress up Korean restaurants. A throng of my fellow Asians awaited eagerly outside for Take31 to go from day-to-night, as if they were anticipating Mike Jagger to pop his head out. But no wonder it’s so popular. Here at Take31, classic Korean fare is replaced with fun, inventive dishes; some may call it Korean fusion, but I simply think it’s just Korean food with a riotous twist.

A trio of us shared three hearty dishes and endless servings of complimentary rice cake doused in Gochujang, that bewitching sweet and spicy sauce…Korea’s ketcup, if you will. Our playful sides prompted us to order the Cheetos-covered chicken tenders. It sounded like a total gimmick, but we rather fancied the moist chicken and the subtle presence of cheese in the crispy batter. We even loved the creamy onion and apple fish dips that accompanied this amusing dish. With Thanksgiving around the corner, maybe we thought it felt rather fitting to order the sweet potato noodles. These sexy, glassy strands yielded a toothsome bite; they hid beneath a mound of rice cakes and mushrooms and came gussied up with drops of truffle oil and a smattering of sweet potato chips. Our final savory entree was the stick-to-the-ribs creamy kimchi stew. Ideal for frigid days and a soul that begs for a hearty dose of comfort, this stew came complete with signature kimchi, sausages, bacon, green peppers, broccoli and even crunchy rice cakes. And the creamy broth boasted a feathery weight to it, so no heavy chowder texture here for you persnickety dieters. We rounded out our eclectic dinner with a buttery and fluffy green tea honey brioche crowned with a matching green tea ice cream.

Atoboy whips up creative Korean-based recipes as well, but their concoctions are more refined than Take31’s. Compared to Take31’s rustic setting, Atoboy’s interior is slick with clean edges. Celebrating the tapas concept is this sophisticated restaurant’s mantra, an audacious and refreshing move from the staid Korean barbecue and clay pot set -ups of its competitors. It’s suggested that you order a triplet of three dishes for $36. Three must be the lucky number these days, as two of my co-workers sampled Atoboy with me on a boisterous Friday night. We passed around our nine dishes to ensure we got bang for our buck.

Our spread included lipstick-red steak tartare served with a side of fried potato strings and dollops of avocado mousse; delicate sunchokes accessorized with hedonistic oyster mushrooms and black truffle; foamy peaks of pureed eggplant paired with sweet Dungeness crab; slivers of smoked salmon flavored with spine-tingling Gochujang, cucumbers and basil; even a bowl of corn delighted us with its mix of umami-driven ingredients like Taleggio cheese, bacon and miso’s Korean twin, the Doenjang; we seemed to marvel over the roasted squid the most – it was served as giant rings stuffed with pork meat and adorned with Salsa Verde; for my “entree,” I opted for pillow-like chunks of brisket lounging in a potent gravy made of fois gras, ginger and garlic. My colleagues each ordered the NY strip steak, tender cuts of beef flavored with Poblano peppers and fragrant sesame oil.

 

What was just ok was the raspberry cake that helped cleanse our palates of the all the savory seasonings. While easy on the eyes with all its pink and green colors, the idle blueberries and dots of raspberry sauce, the cake was too spongy for my liking. It fell flat when compared to Atoboy’s parade of stellar Korean small plates. Incidentally, with your dinner, you get treated to complimentary seaweed chips. Also, if you want to skip the Plain Jane white rice and opt for something sassier, order seaweed pureed rice then treat yourself to a heap of insanely salty salmon roe for a nominal fee.

Escape from the heart of Koreatown and take a detour to the fringes of this ever-popular neighborhood for modern-day Korean food at Take31 and Atoboy. Cast aside your cravings for the everyday tofu stew and Bulgogi (as classically good as they are) and opt for these restaurants’ fun and funky offerings instead. Where else can you nab Cheetos-covered chicken tenders, after all?