Dining at Asian restaurants in some cities can be a bit of a gamble. Some eateries serve Chinese fare while doling out a smattering of random Japanese and Korean dishes, as though the restaurants were undergoing an identity crisis. Then you have places that dare to deploy the proverbial Asian hot sauce, Sriracha, as a seasoning, whether the food is Taiwanese or Indian – that’s actually quite insulting to those with discerning tastes or folks who are experts with whipping up various Asian dishes at home. You then have restaurants that grossly overcharge you – I’ve stumbled upon bowls of pho for $15 or pots of bimbimbap for $20 and above – such highway robbery when competing establishments charge so much less, yet shower you with both quality and quantity.

My mom and I recently tried an understated stunner named Senyai on Ellsworth Avenue in Pittsburgh, intrigued by the focused Thai menu and the rave reviews. It was the first we had heard of this spot, tucked away in the bottom floor of one of the many charming houses dotting this Shadyside nabe of the city. Simple, modern tables and chairs a la Ikea, some snapshots of Pittsburgh, and a striped, textured ceiling that reminded me of fish fins are all that are needed to outfit the interior of Senyai. It’s as though the owners want you to solely focus on your meal at hand versus being distracted by unnecessary decor.

And focus on our cuisine we surely did. That’s not tough to do when the food was authentic and gorgeous without being bombastic. The menu is lightweight but varied, boasting curry favorites, noodle options galore and glorious chef’s specialties. My mom let me down greedy spoonfuls of her Tom Yum soup, a benevolent portion bursting with aromatics of lemongrass and chili and filled with chunks of mushrooms and sizable pieces of shrimp. We then rotated among three shared dishes as our entrees, served on chic clay plates we were deathly afraid to knock over: Senyai’s mango salad is practically a dish in itself, with a fragrant lime and roasted peanut chili dressing marinating the thick matchsticks of sunny yellow fruit and bright cuts of tomatoes and red onions. Even on a blistery, Western PA day like today, the salad felt refreshing and exotic. We slurped hearty portions of green curry with pork, the rich and spicy coconut broth soothing our chilly insides and the toothsome meat competing with the robust broccoli, green pepper, greenbeans and broccoli for our attention. I loved getting tangled up with the Kee Mao, unctuous, wide rice noodles that got offset with generous amounts of tofu, carrots, basil, greenbeans and red peppers.

We left Sanyai feeling supremely satiated yet not weighed down as the ingredients were fresh and not overly decadent. Average price of a dish is in the mid teens, but the restaurant serves grand portions without sacrificing quality. Senyai was worth the gamble and transpired to a winning, triumphant experience!